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Check the hose clips for tightness and examine the trunking for any cracks or splits and furthermore all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best pretentiousness to locate a leak is to have the engine government and hot and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner more or less each joint in turn. If the engine rev s in the works you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the expose flow meter and said it was good. once I unplug it and control the motor, the car runs rasping and at 850ish. I can on your own guess that my new rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or anyhow my maf has died in the midst of all this. I don't think the tps has that much run in the vary of rpm though? I think it lonely adjusts it a propos 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect upon switching the car into idle mode for that reason I'd recommend to make determined the throttle dish is 100% closed and not slightly high and dry once carbon. and next accustom yourself the TPS correspondingly that the IDL attach is continuous to the E2 stick as soon as the throttle is closed, and get into circuit past the throttle is just cracked. Don't badly affect practically any voltages, the IDL admission is the essentially important one.